The term vintage jewellery generally refers to authentic period jewellery that is several decades old, but more recent than pieces usually classified as antique.
At Héritage de France®, we primarily use this term for jewellery made between the early 1950s and the late 1980s. Earlier pieces, including Tank jewellery from the 1940s, are generally classified within our antique jewellery collection.
A genuine vintage jewel is therefore a period piece. It is not a contemporary creation reproducing the aesthetics of the 1960s or 1970s.
These three terms do not mean exactly the same thing.
Antique jewellery belongs to an earlier historical period. At Héritage de France®, the pieces found in this category date primarily from the 19th century through to the 1940s.
Vintage jewellery is more recent: we use the term mainly for pieces created between the 1950s and the 1980s.
Finally, pre-owned jewellery simply means jewellery that has previously belonged to someone else. It may be relatively recent and have no vintage character at all.
This distinction separates the actual age of a jewel from its simple status as a second-hand piece.
Style provides an initial indication, but it is not sufficient to date a jewel accurately.
An examination also considers its construction, manufacturing techniques, stone settings, clasps, hallmarks, signatures and any serial numbers.
Jewellery from this period may be signed by a major jewellery house or may come from a workshop that no longer exists. Unsigned pieces can display equally interesting craftsmanship and quality.
As with antique jewellery, authenticity should therefore be assessed through a combination of characteristics rather than appearance alone.
The 1950s retained a strong taste for sophisticated jewellery, generous volumes and compositions featuring diamonds and coloured gemstones.
During the 1960s and 1970s, yellow gold became particularly prominent. It was worked in many different ways: polished, brushed, hammered, twisted or formed into wires and links. Volumes became bolder, and the treatment of the metal itself became an integral part of the design.
The 1970s and 1980s saw the development of increasingly substantial jewellery, including wide bracelets, bold rings, necklaces, pendants and earrings designed to have a strong visual presence.
This diversity explains why the term vintage encompasses very different styles depending on the decade in which a jewel was made.
18k yellow gold is particularly characteristic of much French vintage jewellery, especially from the 1960s and 1970s.
Metal was no longer simply a support for gemstones. It often became the principal element of the design through textures, volumes and different surface finishes.
Diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds nevertheless remained widely used. They may appear individually, in pavé settings or combined with substantial gold designs.
Many other gemstones can also be found, including citrine, aquamarine and ornamental stones, reflecting the diversity of jewellery design during these decades.
Jewellery from the 1950s to the 1980s corresponds particularly well with the contemporary taste for bold gold jewellery and generous proportions.
Wide-link bracelets, dome rings, snake rings, hoop earrings, long necklaces and substantial pendants can be worn very naturally with contemporary clothing.
Another attraction is the diversity of these pieces: some are highly sophisticated, while others are perfectly suited to everyday wear.
A jewel made forty or sixty years ago can therefore look surprisingly current while retaining the distinctive characteristics of its period.
Condition is an essential consideration.
The stone settings, articulated elements, clasps, soldering and any previous alterations should be examined, along with the overall condition of the jewel and its suitability for regular wear.
Hallmarks and signatures should also be studied when present. On signed jewellery, serial numbers and other marks may provide additional information regarding authenticity.
The quality of the gemstones remains equally important. When a stone is of particular interest, an independent gemmological examination may provide more detailed information about its characteristics.
At Héritage de France®, we offer in Paris a selection of authentic period vintage jewellery, primarily made between the 1950s and the 1980s.
Our collection includes rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, pendants and brooches, both signed and unsigned, selected for their design, craftsmanship, gemstones and state of preservation.
Before being offered for sale, each jewel is examined to assess its precious metals, gemstones, settings and articulated elements, as well as hallmarks, signatures and numbers when present. Any necessary restoration may then be entrusted to our workshop.
The distinction is important: genuine vintage jewellery was actually made several decades ago; modern vintage-style jewellery is a contemporary creation inspired by the aesthetics of the past.
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