Antique jewelry is jewelry that was genuinely made in an earlier historical period. It should be distinguished from a contemporary piece that simply reproduces the aesthetic codes of a historical style.
At Héritage de France®, we primarily use this term for pieces dating from the second half of the 19th century through the 1940s, from the Napoleon III period to Tank jewelry.
Jewelry from later decades, mainly from the 1950s to the 1980s, is generally classified within our vintage jewelry selection.
French jewelry underwent significant changes between the mid-19th century and the 1940s.
Napoleon III jewelry may combine gold, silver, rose-cut or old-cut diamonds, pearls, enamel and colored gemstones.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Art Nouveau favored flowing lines, nature-inspired designs, enamel and considerable freedom in the choice of materials.
During the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco developed a more geometric aesthetic, with platinum, diamonds and colored gemstones playing an important role.
The 1940s saw the emergence of Tank jewelry, characterized notably by bold volumes and the prominent use of yellow or rose gold.
The appearance of a piece alone is not sufficient to determine its age.
Examination should consider its construction, metals, stone settings, soldering, clasps, hallmarks and signatures when present. Gemstone cuts and manufacturing techniques can also provide valuable indications.
It is particularly important to distinguish the age of the gemstones from that of the setting: an antique diamond may have been reset in a more recent piece of jewelry.
Identification therefore relies on a consistent combination of technical and stylistic criteria.
These three terms are not synonymous.
An antique piece is a genuine period jewel, primarily dating from the 19th century through the 1940s according to the classification used at Héritage de France®.
A vintage piece is also a genuine period jewel, but more recent: we mainly use the term for jewelry made between the 1950s and the 1980s.
Pre-owned jewelry simply means jewelry that has previously belonged to someone else. It may be considerably more recent.
This distinction clearly separates the age of a piece from its status as pre-owned jewelry.
Antique jewelry encompasses an exceptionally wide variety of designs.
Antique rings include Pompadour rings, marquise rings, three-stone rings, toi-et-moi rings and geometric Art Deco designs in platinum.
Bracelets may range from 19th-century bangles and diamond-set designs to the substantial Tank bracelets of the 1940s.
Brooches, pendants, lockets, long necklaces, necklaces and earrings also illustrate the wide variety of techniques, materials and decorative motifs found across different periods.
The materials used in jewelry evolved considerably over time.
18k gold, particularly yellow and rose gold, is widely found in antique French jewelry. During the 19th century, gold was also combined with silver, notably for diamond settings.
Platinum became increasingly important in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, allowing jewelers to create fine and complex settings particularly suited to diamonds.
Antique jewelry may feature diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, pearls and ornamental stones. Rose-cut and old-cut diamonds have proportions and faceting that differ significantly from modern standards.
Not necessarily.
A piece that is 80, 100 or 150 years old may have been repaired, restored or resized during its lifetime. A well-executed restoration does not automatically diminish its interest.
Significant alterations should, however, be identified. An antique gemstone reset in a modern setting does not make the new piece antique.
Condition and previous interventions should therefore be assessed individually.
At Héritage de France®, we select jewelry according to its period, design, materials, gemstones, quality of craftsmanship and state of preservation.
Before being offered for sale, stone settings, clasps and structural elements are examined. Hallmarks and signatures are studied when present, and restoration may be entrusted to our workshop when necessary.
Our selection focuses on authentic period jewelry, rather than contemporary reproductions inspired by historical styles.
At Héritage de France® in Paris, we offer a selection of antique jewelry dating from the 19th century through the 1940s, as well as more recent vintage and pre-owned jewelry.
Our collection includes rings, bracelets, earrings, pendants, necklaces and brooches representing different periods of French jewelry.
Napoleon III, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Tank jewelry each have their own distinctive materials, techniques and proportions.
The jewelry presented on our website can also be viewed and tried on at our jewelry store in Paris, allowing you to appreciate its design, proportions and comfort when worn.
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